Pavilions

Yes — you could assemble a DIY timber frame pavilion from one of our pavilion kits if you enjoy construction projects and are comfortable with tools and teamwork. While you don’t need to be a professional carpenter, some experience with construction or DIY projects helps a lot.
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Yes. We can provide a drawing for the concrete footer placement before you place your order.

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• Pavilions that are built on-site are typically available within 500+ miles of Southeastern Pennsylvania.
• Our DIY Kits are available across the continental United States.

• Timber Frame Pavilions that are built on-site are typically available in the eastern half of the United States.
• Our DIY Kits are available across the continental United States.

We sell vinyl pavilion kits for the three styles of vinyl pavilions we install – the Shoreline Pavilion Kit, the Montford Pavilion Kit, and the Caribbean Pavilion Kit.

Pavilion pricing can differ widely based on the sizes and materials you choose. To learn more about what influences the cost, check out our article on pavilion pricing or get in touch for a personalized free quote.

Vinyl, wood, and timber frames are among the top materials people choose when building a pavilion. Each has its own advantages: some are easier to maintain, others are more budget-friendly or long-lasting. Are you curious about which one might work best for your space? Check out our guide on outdoor pavilion ideas for more insight.

Choosing between a pergola and a pavilion comes down to what you’re hoping to get out of the space. One of the biggest distinctions is the roof; pavilions feature a fully covered top that offers more shelter from the weather, while pergolas use an open-slat design that lets in more light. Because of the added structure, pavilions usually come at a higher price point. Want to dive deeper? Take a look at our comparison of pergolas and pavilions.

• Unless an engineer determines how to properly reinforce your deck, we do not recommend it.
• A good alternative method is to install concrete footers/piers under your deck, install the pavilion incorporating longer posts, and then install the deck boards.

• Typically, yes, but it usually requires additional planning, engineering, and inspections than a free-standing pavilion.
• The following are a few preliminary factors to consider:
  • Is your house 1 story or 2 stories at the point of attachment?
  • Will the posts or roofline interfere with any doors or windows on your house?
  • Does your house have a basement in the area adjacent to the wall on which the pavilion would be attached?
  • Whether LCB is able to offer installation of attached pavilions is dependent on the lead time.

Timber Frame Pavilion kits are available nationwide across the contiguous USA.

LCB installs TF Pavilions primarily in the Mid-Atlantic states, but can frequently offer installation in any of the states in the East.

1. LCB is able to fully customize any of our structures; however, this can typically only be offered to a small number of customers per year. Smaller levels of customization are more readily available. The amount of custom jobs is dependent on the lead time.
2. If customization is requested, the following Design Phase process can be expected:
   1. You provide the size and structure design/details.
   2. LCB will provide a budget number.
   3. You enter the Design Phase (payment required).
   4. LCB will draw the structure and work together with you to adjust the design as needed.
   5. LCB will provide a firm estimate.

1. Request a formal estimate.
2. Sign the estimate and provide the deposit.
3. Your structure is ordered!

Yes! We use a laser level and cut the posts onsite as needed.

1. Unless an engineer determines how to properly reinforce your deck, we do not recommend it.
2. A good alternative method is to install concrete footers/piers under your deck, install the pavilion incorporating longer posts, and then install the deck boards.

1. Typically, yes, but it usually requires additional planning, engineering, and inspections than a free-standing pavilion.
2. The following are a few preliminary factors to consider:
   1. Is your house 1 story or 2 stories at the point of attachment?
   2. Will the posts or roofline interfere with any doors or windows on your house?
   3. Does your house have a basement in the area adjacent to the wall on which the pavilion would be attached?
   4. What does the exterior of your house consist of (Vinyl siding, Hardie, Brick etc.)? A vinyl siding scenario is usually the simplest if attaching to a pavilion. The approximate additional cost for a pavilion attached to a home with vinyl siding is $8-12k.
   5. Whether we are able to offer attached pavilions and the installation of the pavilion to your home, is dependent on our current lead time.

If your structure has exposed wooden posts and the patio consists of pavers with concrete footers/piers under the pavers, post standoffs are recommended so the bottoms of the wooden posts do not reside beneath the patio surface. The top of each concrete pier should be located 2.5” beneath the top of the paver stones in that exact area. (View example PDF here)

We sell wood pavilion kits for the two styles of wood pavilions we install – the Lakefront Pavilion Kit and the Cheyenne Pavilion Kit.

To place a pavilion on bare ground, you should first install concrete piers just a bit above the surface of the ground.

In many cases, permits are required. Permit requirements often vary by state, county, city, or local municipality. Check your state and local laws for the most accurate permit requirements for you! Lancaster County Backyard does not obtain permits.

LCB ships DIY pavilion kits primarily within a 1,000-mile radius from our location.

1. LCB installs Pavilions primarily in PA, NJ, DE, MD, VA, NY, and CT.
2. LCB installs typical-sized backyard structures within an approximate 200-mile radius of our location. Outside of this approximate range, it may become cost-prohibitive for you.
3. For larger units (24×24 and larger), LCB occasionally offers installation outside 200 miles.

Lancaster County Backyard uses Douglas fir for our timber frame pavilion kits and all other timber frame structures. We also offer Western Red Cedar as an option for a significant upcharge.

1. Request a formal estimate.
2. Sign the estimate and provide the deposit.
3. Your structure is ordered!

1. See the Guidebook for important preparation steps.
2. Send photos and measurements of the desired location for your timber frame structure to sales@lancastercountybackyard.net.  
3. We will be happy to review your photos and discuss possible scenarios/ideas with you.
4. A site visit/consultation can be requested for a fee based on your location.

In most states, we are able to provide engineered/architectural stamped drawings for pavilions for an additional fee. Contact us to begin the process.

A timber frame uses large, heavy timbers joined with mortise and tenon to form the primary structure, whereas traditional construction relies on smaller dimensional lumber fastened with nails. Learn more about the difference here.

A properly built timber frame structure, when well-maintained, can last for over 100 years. In fact, many ancient timber frame buildings still stand today as proof of their durability and craftsmanship. The key to longevity is protecting the wood from moisture and pest damage. That said, an outdoor timber frame structure without walls typically has a shorter lifespan of around 20–40 years.

Yes. Our DIY timber frame pavilion kits are designed for homeowners or builders who want a hands-on project. If you’re outside of our timber frame installation service area, you can still order one of our timber frame pavilion kits and build it yourself or hire local help.

In most cases, permits are required for building projects. Permit requirements often vary by state, county, city, or local municipality. Lancaster County Backyard does not obtain permits for our timber frame sheds, pavilions, or other backyard structures. Check your state and local laws for the most accurate permit requirements for you!

We believe quality starts with precision. That’s why our craftsmen use advanced CNC routers and computerized equipment to cut each timber frame with accuracy. Every piece is handled, even when heavy members are positioned with lifts rather than carried by hand. Many pieces are hand-sanded, while the remaining timbers are sanded with a large timber sander. The result is machine accuracy with careful human attention at every step.

A wood pavilion kit is a better fit if you prefer a warm, natural-looking pavilion that can be customized with different stains or paints. Plus, wood pavilion kits typically have a lower upfront cost than vinyl, even though it requires more upkeep over time.

A vinyl pavilion kit is ideal if you want an outdoor structure that stays looking clean and fresh with little upkeep. Unlike wood, vinyl doesn’t need to be stained or painted and resists rot, insects, and warping over time.

The milling of lumber creates an extremely smooth surface. For wood pavilions, you can choose a factory-stained finish, or wait to apply the first coat about three months after installation, so most checking is visible and the drier surface accepts stain more evenly; for care tips, see this blog post about “Preserving Outdoor Wood”. For timber frames, we recommend selecting the factory-stained timber option for optimal results and strong UV protection, and reapplying stain on a consistent schedule as exposure and weather demand.

Wood checking is a natural part of owning a wood structure; on pavilions, pergolas, and gazebos, it usually appears in the first year and is mostly cosmetic. Some choose to wait about three months after installation before staining so the wood can settle. On timber frames, checks are typically larger and change with the seasons, yet in a properly engineered structure, they do not indicate a loss of strength.

The extra expense of covering and constructing a vinyl structure makes it 20-40% more expensive than it’s wood counterparts.

The sheer amount of wood required for a timber frame construction makes it more expensive than it’s wood or vinyl counterparts. Also, the mortise and tenon style of building requires a higher level of engineering and expertise to complete. These factors combine to make a timber frame pavilion cost more than standard wood or vinyl.

We recommend that the pavilion columns are placed on concrete piers (cut the concrete and place piers in).

If you’re mounting to an existing wood deck, a good mounting method is to drop the posts down through the deck and secure them to the joists. The recommended method is to take the wooden portion of the post down through the deck. (Trim pieces for vinyl make this a bit simpler.)

We do not recommend fastening to pavers. They do not provide structural stability and are not a secure anchoring method. The recommended method is to install concrete piers approximately 18” in diameter and 36” deep. First, remove a section of pavers at each post location. Then dig down 36”. Fill with concrete to approximately one to two inches below the bottom of pavers. After the pergola or pavilion is installed, the pavers can be cut to fit and replaced around the columns. [Note: Footer size to be verified per job.]

Concrete piers are the primary choice for setting up our pavilions, as they provide a strong and lasting base. While we can secure the structure to other types of foundations, concrete piers remain the most common and recommended option for outdoor installations.

We do offer premier-quality stain in a variety of shades and colors. Although this service provides the most convenient staining option for your structure, it’s even better to wait for staining until three or four months after construction. Dryer wood receives stain better, though you don’t want to wait so long that oxidation becomes evident and the wood starts to gray. Ask us for more direction on the ideal staining procedure for your project.

A check is the name given to cracks that form on the surface of wood columns, and results from the outermost layers drying and contracting before the inner core. Checking is considered an inevitable feature of wood construction, and simply adds to the unique character of each piece of wood. For lumber that is less susceptible to deep checks, choose #1 Douglas Fir for your exposed wooden structure.

Mortise and tenon is the architectural term for the joining of posts, beams, and braces using a tightly interlocking design that’s secured with wood pegs rather than metal fasteners. Projects that feature exposed beams with mechanical fasteners are typically classified as post and beam construction rather than timber frame. While mortise and tenon is preferred on our timber frame projects, depending on the design we may suggest the inclusion of hidden, minimal, or artfully integrated metal brackets and straps in order to maintain budgetary requirements, or produce a different kind of look.

Our timber frame structures are forged from #1 Douglas Fir – a deluxe-quality lumber preferred by many people. One inch solid oak pegs are used in the mortise and tenon joinery.

Please don’t hesitate to reach out. We welcome your questions and are happy to discuss your project in more detail. Call us at 267 638 6983 or email us at sales@lancastercountybackyard.net.