Timber Frame Pergolas

If you’re mounting to an existing wood deck, a good and proper mounting method is to drop the posts down through the deck and secure them to the joists. The recommended method is to take the wooden portion of the post down through the deck.

Lead times can vary depending on the project, so the best way to get an accurate answer is to fill out a quote form. Once submitted, our team will review your details and provide a timeframe for your structure.

Yes. We can provide a drawing for the concrete footer placement before you place your order.

A properly built timber frame pergola, when well-maintained, can last for around 10-20 years. The key to longevity is protecting the wood from moisture and UV rays from the sun.

• Pergolas that are built on-site are typically available within 300 miles of Southeastern Pennsylvania.
• Our DIY Kits are available across the continental United States.

• Boulder Timber Frame Pergolas that are built on-site are typically available within 500+ miles of Southeast Pennsylvania.
• Our DIY Kits are available across the continental United States.

The cost can vary widely based on factors like size and the materials you choose. If you’d like an accurate estimate tailored to your project, reach out for a free quote.

Vinyl and wood are the two most popular options, each offering its advantages. Factors like budget, upkeep, and how long the material lasts can all play a role in your decision. If you’re looking for inspiration or tips, our pergola ideas blog has plenty of helpful info.

That really comes down to what you’re looking for in an outdoor structure. The key difference lies in the roof design; pavilions have a full, solid roof, while pergolas use an open-slat or lattice style. If you need more shelter from the sun or rain, a pavilion might be the way to go, though it usually comes with a higher price tag. Want a deeper comparison? Take a look at our detailed article on pergolas vs. pavilions.

Yes! We use a laser level and cut the posts onsite as needed.

If your structure has exposed wooden posts and the patio consists of pavers with concrete footers/piers under the pavers, post standoffs are recommended so the bottoms of the wooden posts do not reside beneath the patio surface. The top of each concrete pier should be located 2.5” beneath the top of the paver stones in that exact area. (View example PDF here)

In many cases, permits are required. Permit requirements often vary by state, county, city, or local municipality. Check your state and local laws for the most accurate permit requirements for you! Lancaster County Backyard does not obtain permits.

1. See the Guidebook for important preparation steps.
2. Send photos and measurements of the desired location for your timber frame structure to sales@lancastercountybackyard.net.  
3. We will be happy to review your photos and discuss possible scenarios/ideas with you.
4. A site visit/consultation can be requested for a fee based on your location.

In most cases, permits are required for building projects. Permit requirements often vary by state, county, city, or local municipality. Lancaster County Backyard does not obtain permits for our timber frame sheds, pavilions, or other backyard structures. Check your state and local laws for the most accurate permit requirements for you!

We believe quality starts with precision. That’s why our craftsmen use advanced CNC routers and computerized equipment to cut each timber frame with accuracy. Every piece is handled, even when heavy members are positioned with lifts rather than carried by hand. Many pieces are hand-sanded, while the remaining timbers are sanded with a large timber sander. The result is machine accuracy with careful human attention at every step.

The milling of lumber creates an extremely smooth surface. For wood pavilions, you can choose a factory-stained finish, or wait to apply the first coat about three months after installation, so most checking is visible and the drier surface accepts stain more evenly; for care tips, see this blog post about “Preserving Outdoor Wood”. For timber frames, we recommend selecting the factory-stained timber option for optimal results and strong UV protection, and reapplying stain on a consistent schedule as exposure and weather demand.

Wood checking is a natural part of owning a wood structure; on pavilions, pergolas, and gazebos, it usually appears in the first year and is mostly cosmetic. Some choose to wait about three months after installation before staining so the wood can settle. On timber frames, checks are typically larger and change with the seasons, yet in a properly engineered structure, they do not indicate a loss of strength.

If you’re mounting to an existing wood deck, a good mounting method is to drop the posts down through the deck and secure them to the joists. The recommended method is to take the wooden portion of the post down through the deck. (Trim pieces for vinyl make this a bit simpler.)

We do not recommend fastening to pavers. They do not provide structural stability and are not a secure anchoring method. The recommended method is to install concrete piers approximately 18” in diameter and 36” deep. First, remove a section of pavers at each post location. Then dig down 36”. Fill with concrete to approximately one to two inches below the bottom of pavers. After the pergola or pavilion is installed, the pavers can be cut to fit and replaced around the columns. [Note: Footer size to be verified per job.]

We do offer premier-quality stain in a variety of shades and colors. Although this service provides the most convenient staining option for your structure, it’s even better to wait for staining until three or four months after construction. Dryer wood receives stain better, though you don’t want to wait so long that oxidation becomes evident and the wood starts to gray. Ask us for more direction on the ideal staining procedure for your project.

A check is the name given to cracks that form on the surface of wood columns, and results from the outermost layers drying and contracting before the inner core. Checking is considered an inevitable feature of wood construction, and simply adds to the unique character of each piece of wood. For lumber that is less susceptible to deep checks, choose #1 Douglas Fir for your exposed wooden structure.

Mortise and tenon is the architectural term for the joining of posts, beams, and braces using a tightly interlocking design that’s secured with wood pegs rather than metal fasteners. Projects that feature exposed beams with mechanical fasteners are typically classified as post and beam construction rather than timber frame. While mortise and tenon is preferred on our timber frame projects, depending on the design we may suggest the inclusion of hidden, minimal, or artfully integrated metal brackets and straps in order to maintain budgetary requirements, or produce a different kind of look.

Our timber frame structures are forged from #1 Douglas Fir – a deluxe-quality lumber preferred by many people. One inch solid oak pegs are used in the mortise and tenon joinery.

Please don’t hesitate to reach out. We welcome your questions and are happy to discuss your project in more detail. Call us at 267 638 6983 or email us at sales@lancastercountybackyard.net.